Surfing

When all fades
re erased
as if never
put down

to be recast
now hold on fast
don't have a cow
we're really starting now

bend and break
wide awake
as all comes tumbling down

and somehow
we glide to the right
cutting ice and stone
water and soul alone

as I carve down
and forward
pushing on my board to go

and for those 5 seconds
I am alive
until I crash

dive
and hide
beneath the tumbling tide
and my board
hits the ground
and kick

get some air quick

and breathe
till the breakers I leave
and go out once more
and so goes the
surfing cycle

OR you can give up and quit
and say I'm done with it
which depending on the
waves & the power
may be the right thing
in that hour

but feel it out before you go
so you can look back
and fondly know-

that was good.